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Visit to Another Planet
Photographing Antarctica: What to expect, what to bring
In 2022, I was lucky enough to visit two of the world’s most famous and most photographed locations: Antarctica and Machu Picchu. This is the first of two articles describing what I encountered as an amateur photographer — how the reality differed from my expectations, and what recommendations I can offer to other amateurs visiting these extraordinary places.
My trips to both places were not a high-end, dedicated photo expeditions. They were typical tours available to any visitor. I was under the same logistical and time constraints as other tourists. I had no extraordinary access to special spots. I toured at the same times of day to the same familiar destinations as everyone else. What I report is therefore a lowest common denominator account of what to expect. People preparing for longer or more exclusive experiences might take these articles as starting points.
Another Planet
Standing on the observation deck of our ship as it entered Andvord Bay on a brilliant January afternoon, I realized that the Antarctic is as close as I will ever come to what it might be like to visit another planet. The vastness, the miles of pale blue ice disappearing to the horizon in the haze, sun so bright that it was impossible to take off my glasses — it was alien and sublimely beautiful. There is no place like it.
I must emphasize how strange and amazing this place is, because it is too easy to be blasé if you haven’t seen it. I had expectations, but the reality was beyond them.
Before 1961, when the Antarctic Treaty was signed by the 12 countries active in Antarctica during the International Geophysical Year of 1957–1958, the international map of Antarctica looked like this, as described during a history lesson on board:

It was divided like a pie, with multiple countries exerting influence on different sectors. After the ratification of the treaty in 1961, the group of actively-involved countries gave up their claims and accepted the freedom of scientific research and the peaceful use of the continent as a world resource.
The treaty still exists, but stresses are emerging. Climate change is warming the poles more quickly…